Thursday, April 19, 2012

Choss Roof Project

I have been trying a new project at Choss Roof that will likely be the longest roof climb in Northern Arizona. The line traverses the belly of Choss roof with big shouldery moves, underclings and precise footwork. After about 22 moves you find yourself at the start of "Choss Roof" and have to finish out with a dyno then a hard compression refrigerator block, feet first lip encounter, immediately followed with a heartbreaker throw to a juggy block. Here's video of the new section of the roof and a cool problem on the left side with a big move off of a fish hooked mono.

Mono Problem from Matt Gentile on Vimeo.

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

BVB Roof Annihilation

Went out to BvB Roof with Andrew yesterday morning. He crushed BvB Roof on his first attempt of the day, and then went to work on The Sparkle Jockey(BVB Direct).Showing no fear of the wacked landing he quickly worked out the beta and claimed the 3rd ascent. The onslaught of the roof continued and I claimed the first ascent of The Vile Red Falcon( see nintendo classic Contra 1986), which starts on the super bvb roof and exits out the Sparkle Jockey. In the afternoon I went to Choss Roof with Coop and we got his truck stuck in the mud about 1 mile from the Roof. We abandoned the truck and carried as many pads as we could. The Battle of the Blobs was still dripping from last weekend's snow storm. Coop went to work on Choss Roof making good links and rewiring the beta, and I cleaned a new section, starting right about 25 ft which will link into the 3rd move of Choss Roof. Thanks to Jake for rescuing us from a long walk back to town. Will Post pictures of the new Choss roof project soon...here's video of some of the action from BVB Roof.


Sunday, April 15, 2012

BVB Roof

The waiting is finally over and I went down woody mountain rd. for the first time since November. Climbed on the BVB Roof and managed to get video of a send. Two days later we got hit with a snowstorm so we'll have to wait a couple days to go back. The link from the Super BVB start into the Sparkle Jockey is still a project for the time being.

Saturday, April 7, 2012

Drop Zone

Now that the wait is finally over and we can use the forest roads, Coop and I made it out to the Drop Zone Roof. Drop Zone is a limestone roof similar to those in Priest Draw but a little taller and unfortunately charred and stained by years of idiots having campfires underneath it. Luckily conditions were breezy and overcast, and I managed to pull off a send of Drop Zone Center wearing socks under my climbing shoes for extra toe cam power. I had worked it last summer during night sessions, but never was able to pull the crux, so I was glad to finish it before the warm weather arrived. Afterwards we finished the day on Super Roof with good endurance training and complete muscle failure for me. Woody Mountain rd. is still closed, but with dry weather ahead it will only be a matter of days.
Photo:Andrew Rothner poached Sam's video of AO sending

Coop sending Drop Zone Left and Super Roof

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