Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Choss Roof-The Blobs Project

I have been trying a sick new project at choss roof lately. Starting on the far right side you traverse a line of blobs through the entire roof for about 60 ft to a mantle finish on far left side. After 3 days of work, all the holds have been cleaned, landing built, and every move has been linked. As of yesterday the high point was 2/3 through and into the second and hardest crux section. Forecast says snow so it will hopefully go down before the blobs get soaked. Here's videos and pictures ..Photos :Pat Fitts
                                                                          The first crux
Sam demonstrating the proper technique for a Flagstaff spot

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Buffalo Park

60% roof
Sam climbing approved sequence #2
Buffalo Park is a bouldering area located 1 mile outside of downtown flagstaff. It consists of a small band of basalt boulders, and houses one of the best problems in flagstaff, the madsen problem. Here's 2 of the approved sequences, the landing is weird so bring lots of crashpads.


Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Hinterlands

With imminent snow heading to Flagstaff and road closures likely to follow soon, I went to BVB roof for probably the last time this year. I sent the second ascent of The Sparkle Jockey(BVB Direct) put up by Sam Tingy in May. Here's a video.

Monday, November 7, 2011

Choss Roof

I have been climbing at Choss Roof in the Hinterlands a bit lately, and my friend John Cooper found some nice beta for the crux of the line "Choss Roof". It allows you to turn around backwards in the middle of the roof and attain the jug with your feet set for the ending. This climb isn't the typical pocketed limestone around Flagstaff, instead it has big moves between slopers, crimps and jug features..sick!. Recently it snowed a bit, but the roof stayed dry and I managed to use the cold temps to send. Here's a link to the video http://www.youtube.com/v/moGMbjHbQx0&fs=1&source=uds" />

Spider Pocket Project-Photo-Pat Fitts

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

October

I went to Joe's Valley twice this month and got owned by a bunch of classic boulder problems.  I managed to send a few but there were so many problems I didn't even get to see.I left with thrashed and bleeding fingers, and then my fucking car broke down about 2 hrs outside of Flagstaff. I'll be back for revenge in the spring. In Flagstaff I went back to work on more important things, roof projects. I've been trying an extension to the BVB roof along with my friends Cooper and Sam, since June. It adds 20 ft of awesome roof underclings into a new crux involving a hard foot bicycle to establish more  undercling pinches and then out the original finish. My forearms pumped out and I barely managed to keep it together for a send. I also climbed a cool project at the Priest draw linking carnivore direct out the bk broiler(first ascent?), it made the ending far more challenging than I anticipated and lost control, slamming into the dirt shoulders first a couple times. Here's a video of the Super BVB roof, sorry the quality is so bad, its better to watch if you follow youtube's link. Stay tuned for more video of probably only roofs.

Sam climbing BVB Roof. Combine the two videos and you have Super BVB




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bvb roof from Sam T on Vimeo.
Coop Trying Super BVB Roof

super bvb roof project from Sam T on Vimeo.

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