Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Snowy Priest Draw

Went to the draw a few days this week and got to circuit a bunch of roofs despite there being about a foot of snow and dripping topouts. I sent the BK Broiler and tried to do it again but hacked the ending and missed the pads. here's a video

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Blobs Update-Choss Roof

I have been coming agonizingly close sending the Battle Of The Blobs project at Choss roof, falling after the 2nd crux with only 10 ft left to the mantle. The top of the roof dripped melting snow and ruined the ending, causing failure on wet holds. It's been snowing for days and doesn't look like it will stop anytime soon...fukt! On a more positive note, Pat Fitts took advantage of the dry and cold conditions and sent his project Choss Roof, with impeccable timing right before he left for winter break. Nice Work!

Photos by Pat Fitts
Crash pads are on the top of the roof to slow the melting snow.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Mars Roof Quad Crown

Mars Roof at the Priest Draw is a perfect place to climb when the weather gets shitty in Flagstaff. It's almost always dry and hosts an impressive amount of roof problems, making it the perfect training tool for roof power and endurance. I have been climbing at Mars about once a week for the past year and half, and the climbing is never disappointing. We went out a couple days ago and despite the high temperature of 28 degrees, the conditions were perfect. I had to use a lighter to melt the ice off the jug ending on the girl from ipanema, but that was the only wet hold. Here's video of the Quad Crown, sending all four problems back to back with no falls in one day.

the girl from ipanema from Sam T on Vimeo.

suplexing navajos from Sam T on Vimeo.

Lolita from Sam T on Vimeo.

The Receptionist from Sam T on Vimeo.

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Choss Roof-The Blobs Project

I have been trying a sick new project at choss roof lately. Starting on the far right side you traverse a line of blobs through the entire roof for about 60 ft to a mantle finish on far left side. After 3 days of work, all the holds have been cleaned, landing built, and every move has been linked. As of yesterday the high point was 2/3 through and into the second and hardest crux section. Forecast says snow so it will hopefully go down before the blobs get soaked. Here's videos and pictures ..Photos :Pat Fitts
                                                                          The first crux
Sam demonstrating the proper technique for a Flagstaff spot

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Buffalo Park

60% roof
Sam climbing approved sequence #2
Buffalo Park is a bouldering area located 1 mile outside of downtown flagstaff. It consists of a small band of basalt boulders, and houses one of the best problems in flagstaff, the madsen problem. Here's 2 of the approved sequences, the landing is weird so bring lots of crashpads.


Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Hinterlands

With imminent snow heading to Flagstaff and road closures likely to follow soon, I went to BVB roof for probably the last time this year. I sent the second ascent of The Sparkle Jockey(BVB Direct) put up by Sam Tingy in May. Here's a video.

Monday, November 7, 2011

Choss Roof

I have been climbing at Choss Roof in the Hinterlands a bit lately, and my friend John Cooper found some nice beta for the crux of the line "Choss Roof". It allows you to turn around backwards in the middle of the roof and attain the jug with your feet set for the ending. This climb isn't the typical pocketed limestone around Flagstaff, instead it has big moves between slopers, crimps and jug features..sick!. Recently it snowed a bit, but the roof stayed dry and I managed to use the cold temps to send. Here's a link to the video http://www.youtube.com/v/moGMbjHbQx0&fs=1&source=uds" />

Spider Pocket Project-Photo-Pat Fitts

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

October

I went to Joe's Valley twice this month and got owned by a bunch of classic boulder problems.  I managed to send a few but there were so many problems I didn't even get to see.I left with thrashed and bleeding fingers, and then my fucking car broke down about 2 hrs outside of Flagstaff. I'll be back for revenge in the spring. In Flagstaff I went back to work on more important things, roof projects. I've been trying an extension to the BVB roof along with my friends Cooper and Sam, since June. It adds 20 ft of awesome roof underclings into a new crux involving a hard foot bicycle to establish more  undercling pinches and then out the original finish. My forearms pumped out and I barely managed to keep it together for a send. I also climbed a cool project at the Priest draw linking carnivore direct out the bk broiler(first ascent?), it made the ending far more challenging than I anticipated and lost control, slamming into the dirt shoulders first a couple times. Here's a video of the Super BVB roof, sorry the quality is so bad, its better to watch if you follow youtube's link. Stay tuned for more video of probably only roofs.

Sam climbing BVB Roof. Combine the two videos and you have Super BVB




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bvb roof from Sam T on Vimeo.
Coop Trying Super BVB Roof

super bvb roof project from Sam T on Vimeo.

Friday, September 30, 2011

Flagstaff Projects

It's Finally cooling off here in Flagstaff and I can stop having night sessions and start climbing more during the day. Summer is always great here and its stays relatively cool, but im glad it's over. An added plus to the weather getting cold is that all the hippies go back inside just in time for conditions to get prime. The past few months have been fairly productive and I've managed to send a few of my Priest Draw projects including the 3rd ascent of Pink Lightening Ultra, The BK Broiler, The Crossjoint FA and Luke Cockstalker. Most of these I had given up on or had deemed to difficult to send until the cold temps arrived, so I was pretty physced to finish them before fall. Heres a few pictures of  things lately.

The BK Broiler-Priest Daw Flagstaff
Photo by:Sam Davis

BVB Roof-Flagstaff Hinterlands
photo by: Pat Fitts

Super BVB Roof Project
Flagstaff Hinterlands

This is landing for the Sparklejockey(BVB direct) There are big moves towards the lip and failure to send results in being thrown over or through the trees.

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